Before my recent trip to Iceland, there were only a few main attractions I really wanted to see. The glacier lagoon, black sand beaches and the famous waterfalls were all on my list. We arrived late at night after flying in from London and met our friends in Reykiavik who had arrived earlier that day.

We spent the first night hashing out a tentative plan for our 5 day trip while enjoying a welcome meal of fresh bread, butter, black caviar and of course vodka. Between our two lists, we managed to squeeze in A LOT of sightseeing over the next few days.

We covered 4 areas of the country over the course of our 5 day trip – The Gorlden Circle, the southern coast, the western peninsula and Reykjavik.  Due to bad road conditions, we had to skip the eastern coast and north shore. But that just gives me a reason to go back! Below is part 1 of my Iceland itinerary to help break down what to see and do on your first visit!

 

 Bruarfoss Falls

Strokkur Geysir

Gulfoss Waterfall

DAY 1: GOLDEN CIRCLE

6 STOPS | DRIVE TIME: 3.5 HOURS | MAP THE ROUTE HERE

Just outside of Reykjavik is a string of attractions located along what’s known as Iceland’s Golden Circle. Although it’s ambitious, you can tackle most of the sites in one day.

1. Thingvellir National Park and the Öxarárfoss Waterfall were stop number 1 on the first full day of our trip. Although it was snow covered when we visited, I still enjoyed the peaceful snowy views at this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2. The Bruarfoss Waterfall was a little hard to find and required some fence hopping, but the view was so worth it! The jewel toned waterfall and snow capped mountains in the distance were so stunning. You can also walk down the river bank and get a closer look at the the falls.

3. Iceland’s Strokkur Geysir was the first stop of the trip wheres I started to feel like I was on anther planet. The geothermal field emits strong sulfur smells. As you approach you’ll notice the gurgling sound emanating from the earth. The geyser erupts every few minutes so you’re guaranteed to see it.

We watched the eruption in amazement a few times. It was just such a thrill! There is also a gift shop and café across the street where we where you can pick up some overpriced souvenirs and grab lunch. We enjoyed a lovely traditional Icelandic meal! I opted for the lamb stew and it did not disappoint!

4.Gulfoss Falls is one of the more recognizable landmarks in Iceland. The rushing waterfall is equally powerful and breathtaking. There are two different lookout points that each offer a slightly different vantage of the falls. The frigid wind was so intense when we visited that we could only stand long enough to snap a few photos before running back to the car for warmth!

5. The Kerið Crater (pronounced Kerid) was our last stop of the day. Unfortunately, the crater was covered with snow and ice (as it is during most of March and April). During warmer months, the turquoise water is surrounded by multi-colored earth which is quite stunning. I would love to return and check out the trail that leads down to the base of the crater. It was just too cold to do any type of exploring on the day we visited!

6. By the end of the day we were ready to book a room and find a to relax and warm up after a chilly first day of exploring. We settled on Hótel Hvolsvöllur just around the corner from the next site on our list for day 2. We ordered a pizza and devoured it in the comfort of our room before drifting up to get some rest before our next day of adventure.

Travel Tip: It’s not necessary to book your rooms in advance. There are plenty of hotels, guesthouses and Airbnb options available. We waited to book our room in the afternoon each day (they averaged $100 a night), which gave us more flexibility to explore. If I ever go back, I actually want to rent a camper so I can just let the day lead me and fall asleep underneath the stars. 

 

Seljavallalaug  & Skógafoss Waterfall

Reynisfjara Beach

DAY 2: THE SOUTHERN COAST

7 STOPS | DRIVE TIME: 5 HOURS | MAP THE ROUTE HERE

Iceland’s southern coast is full of fascinating sites. There is so much to see that you’ll need at least 2-3 days to fit it all in.

1. The Seljandafoss Waterfall was the first stop on day 2 of our trip. We got there early in the morning, which I do not recommend. Because the waterfall faces west, it is covered in shadow in the morning hours. It is also much colder causing the spray off the falls to ice over the trail that goes behind it.

I didn’t even try to attempt the slippery trail, and instead made my way up the stairway to the right of the falls to get a view from the top. It was as equally treacherous and so wet and cold. The near freezing conditions couldn’t stop a newlywed couple from braving the elements to capture their first kiss under the falls in frigid temperatures, wedding dress and all!

2. Seljavallalaug is Iceland’s oldest pool located in a beautiful mountain valley. The pool is fed by a hot spring making the water quite warm so visitors can swim year round. There is also a small pool house where you can change before taking a dip. My Russian was the only one crazy enough to take a dip and brave the frigid temperatures getting in and out of the pool!

3. Skógafoss Waterfall is just a few minutes east of Seljandafoss. As soon we pulled up, I gasped. There was a full rainbow stretched across the falls. It was so magical it quite literally took my breath away! The morning is a great time to go because this waterfall faces west and is perfectly lit at this time of day! Be sure to make your way up the stairs to access the walking trail and stunning views from the top.

4. Take a glacier tour at Sólheimajökull. If you forgot your spikes and ice pick like us, there is a pathway that runs parallel to the glacier and offers pretty good views of the ice.

5. The Reynisfjara Beach and basalt sea stacks were something I had really been looking forward to seeing. It didn’t disappoint. The strange rock formations and crashing waves were so beautiful. I wold love to return during and spend more time during warm weather months.

6. Vík is the southernmost town in Iceland. If you look down while driving through, you might just miss it. It is tiny, but it is home to one important landmark. Vík church is the designated refuge for residents in the event the Katla volcano, located due north of the down, were to erupt. It is feared that an eruption would cause the glacier that sits on top of the volcano to melt, triggering a devastating flash flood. Luckily, there hasn’t been a full eruption for over 100 years!

After a long day of sightseeing, we made our way to the town of Höfn where we spent the night at the Höfn Inn Guesthouse. We grabbed dinner at Restaurant Z Bistro, which hit the spot. Despite our exhaustion, we managed to stay up just late enough to catch a glimpse of dancing Northern Lights. It was pure magic!

Travel Tip: If I were to to it again, I probably would have skipped the overnight in Hofn and instead booked a room at a more remote location. There was an adorable log cabin hotel near the Seljavallalaug pool that offered breathtaking ocean views and would have been the perfect place to catch the Northern Lights. 

 

 Jökulsárlón Diamond Beach

Svínafellsjökull Glacier

Solheimasandur plane wreck in Iceland

DAY 3: THE SOUTHERN COAST PART 2

6 STOPS | DRIVE TIME: 8 HOURS | MAP THE ROUTE HERE

1. Day 3 kicked with a stop at the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. We stopped by briefly the night before, but it was nice to spend a bit more time exploring and taking in the beauty. The adorable harbor seals even appeared to enjoy a morning swim!

2. Across the road from the lagoon was Jökulsárlón Diamond Beach, which I had been SO anxious to see. I had been in awe of this place based on photos I had seen from other travelers. Getting to experience it in person was something else. The black sand beach was covered with chunks of ice. Some small enough to hold in my hand, others large enough to stand on.

I had heard that the amount of ice changes from day to day depending on the tide and that at times there is little to see. Luckily there was plenty of ice that morning. It was by far one of the coolest places I’ve ever been.

Travel Tip: Diamond beach faces east, which means you can catch a pretty epic sunrise here. If we had stayed at a closer guesthouse, I would have insisted we get up early to see it!

3. The Skaftafell National Park is another popular attraction along Iceland’s southern coast. Here you’ll find glaciers, hiking trails and the jaw dropping Svartifoss Waterfall flanked by basalt columns. Plan on doing some serious walking if you choose to visit here – the walk to the waterfall is about 2 hours round trip just to give you an idea. Some areas of the park may be restricted depending on the season, so be sure to plan your visit ahead of time.

4. Svínafellsjökull is another glacier not far from Skaftafell. We opted to visit here over Skaftafell due to limited time. It too offers up beautiful glacier and mountain views as well as an extensive hiking trail high above the ice.

Travel Tip: The road to leading to the entrance is pretty rough. If you don’t have an all-terrain vehicle, it’s still doable, but it’ll take some patience to get there.

5. The Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon was another site I was really looking forward to. Unfortunately, it was closed due to the winter weather. There was still a trail open to the top of the canyon, but access to valley itself is closed until spring. It was a disappointment, but now I have an excuse to return in warmer weather!

6. Since we couldn’t do the canyon walk, we decided to check out the Solheimasandur plane wreck. In 1973, a U.S. Navy DC plane ran out of fuel and crashed on the black sand beach of Iceland’s southern coast. Fortunately all passengers survived and the wreckage remains stranded on the beach for all to see. Getting to the plane requires about a 1 hour walk each way, so you’ll have no problem getting your daily steps in!

Travel Tip: The plane itself isn’t that exciting, but the walk and the views are worth it. If you’re short on time, this is a stop you could easily skip. But the scenery is pretty wild – miles of empty black sand beach, jagged rocks jutting out from the sea in the distance and a snow capped mountain range in the background. 

Afterwards we piled back in the car to make the 4 hour drive to the last area we wanted to explore – Iceland’s Western Peninsula. On our way we, I insisted that we make a quick back at the Seljandafoss to catch a glimpse of it at golden hour. Not only was the lighting perfect, we were even treated to a rainbow!

 

 

Inspired to visit Iceland yet? If so, you can check out part 2 of the complete Iceland itinerary here! 

 

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